Care of Ficus Bonsai

Place the Ficus indoors in a very bright spot, preferably right next to a window where it receives as much natural light as possible, but 2-3 meters from a window is also fine, as long as it gets enough direct or indirect light. In the full summer sun, it is better to place the bonsai a little farther from the window.

In summer, the tree can be moved outdoors once temperatures reliably remain above approximately 15 °C . It can receive plenty of sun there, but a Ficus that has been indoors for an extended period must gradually acclimatize to direct sunlight. So do not suddenly move it from the living room into bright summer sun for an entire day.

The Ficus also prefers a relatively constant, warm temperature and should be protected from cold drafts and sudden temperature changes. Higher humidity is beneficial, especially if you want to encourage aerial roots.

Do not water according to a fixed weekly schedule. Check the substrate regularly and water as soon as the top layer starts to dry out slightly.

Then water thoroughly until water runs out through the drainage holes of the bonsai pot. The substrate should become thoroughly moist, but the roots should not remain in wet soil permanently.

During warm, sunny periods, the tree will need significantly more water than during the dark winter months. The warmer the Ficus is kept in winter and the more actively it continues to grow, the more water it will continue to use.

Preferably use soft water at approximately room temperature. A bonsai watering can with a fine rose is useful because it moistens the substrate evenly without washing away the soil.

The Ficus can tolerate slightly too much or too little water occasionally fairly well, but persistently wet soil can cause root problems. Prolonged drying out should also be avoided.

Regular misting can help increase the humidity around the tree. Do not overdo it: constantly wet leaves combined with poor ventilation can cause fungal problems.

During the active growing season, a Ficus needs feeding relatively regularly. Use a complete bonsai fertilizer, for example a liquid bonsai fertilizer or organic fertilizer pellets.

In summer, this can be done approximately 2-4 times per month. During winter, fertilize less: if the tree continues growing under sufficient light, approximately every 4-6 weeks.

When the tree barely grows due to low light intensity, it also needs much less fertilizer. Fertilizing is of little use when there is hardly any active growth

Ficus responds well to pruning and will easily regrow from old wood, even after fairly severe pruning.

To maintain its shape, first allow a new shoot to develop approximately 6–8 leaves Then prune the shoot back to approximately 2 leaves.

Structural or heavier pruning is best carried out when the tree is growing strongly and actively. We recommend doing this mainly in spring.

Leaf pruning can be used on a healthy, strong Ficus to encourage smaller leaves and finer branching. Do not apply this indiscriminately to a weakened tree.

If you want to develop a thicker trunk, you can allow certain branches or the entire tree to grow freely for one to two years before cutting it back.

For thin shoots, use a sharp bonsai scissors. For thicker branches, a concave cutter is suitable, as it creates a neater wound. We recommend covering larger pruning wounds with wound paste, so that the bonsai cannot become infected with diseases.

White latex sap is released during pruning. This is normal for a Ficus.

A Ficus is easy to wire because young and medium-sized branches are relatively flexible. Bonsai wire can be used to bring branches to a different angle or direction.

Wiring can be done all year round.

The main point of attention is its rapid growth. The bark of a Ficus is relatively smooth, so wire can quickly grow into the branch and leave permanent scars. Therefore, check applied wiring regularly.

Thicker branches that are difficult to shape with standard wiring can be gradually brought to the desired position using guy wires. This technique provides more control and may be safer for heavy branches.

Ficus also offers special possibilities for advanced techniques: trunks, roots, and branches that are placed firmly against each other for an extended period can eventually fuse together. This can be used to create, for example, multiple trunks and extensive root structures.

Repot a Ficus on average once every two years. Repotting can be done from spring through summer.

Signs that repotting is becoming necessary include a very compact root ball, many roots along the inside of the pot or emerging from its drainage holes, and substrate through which water is increasingly difficult to pass.

During repotting, carefully remove some of the old substrate from between the roots and, if necessary, trim back long or heavily congested roots. Ficus tolerates root pruning relatively well.

After repotting, the tree needs sufficient warmth and light, but avoid major additional interventions such as drastic pruning. The tree must recover first.

Use an airy and well-draining bonsai substrate .The roots need to be able to absorb sufficient moisture without remaining in wet, oxygen-poor soil for extended periods.

We recommend the following:

• 100% Akadama
• 80% Akadama + 20% volcanic material

A generally well-draining bonsai mix can also be used. More important than one exact recipe is that the substrate provides sufficient drainage and air around the roots while retaining enough moisture between waterings.

Always use a bonsai pot with good drainage holes.

A ficus bonsai must be kept indoors all year round

Ficus is generally a strong species that is reasonably resistant to pests. Problems mainly arise when the tree becomes weakened by unsuitable growing conditions.

Especially during winter, low light, dry air, and improper watering can cause leaf loss and weaken the tree. A weakened Ficus then becomes more susceptible to pests such as spider mites and scale insects.

Therefore, when dealing with an infestation, you should not only control the insect but also investigate why the tree has become weakened. Check the light, watering, temperature, ventilation, and humidity.

In the case of a minor infestation, affected areas can be cleaned by hand and the tree can be checked regularly. In the case of a persistent infestation, a suitable treatment for the specific insect or mite may be necessary.

Additional grow lights can help during the dark winter months when insufficient daylight is the cause of the weakening.